Tag Archives: Sansai

A visit to a sansho farm in Japan

As I’ve acknowledged in various other posts from my spring 2016 study tour to Japan I am forever grateful to Aiah Noack of Naturplanteskolen in Denmark for organising the tour of sansai farms near to the city of Toyota and for the on-the-ground assistance and translation by her plant breeding friend, Teruo Takatomi, and colleagues  who had kindly offered to organise a tour of farms for a couple of days. If you’re not familiar with the term sansai, it literally means mountain vegetables, previously wild foraged vegetables nowadays farmed for markets near the urban areas.
Before meeting Teruo we spent a couple of days in Kyoto and visited the Nishiki market to familiarise ourselves with local vegetables. Here, the importance of sansho (san as in sansai meaning mountain and sho, pepper) or Japanese pepper (Zanthoxylum piperitum) is in the Kyoto cuisine was obvious with several shops profiling this spice in addition to restaurants and fast food outlets selling sansho dishes (pictures below). 
See also my blog post celebrating my first harvest in Malvik: https://www.edimentals.com/blog/?p=34090

The genus Zanthoxylum includes some 250 species of deciduous and evergreen trees, shrubs and climbers in the citrus family, Rutaceae. Zanthoxylum piperitum is called sanshō (山椒) in Japan and chopi (초피) in Korea. I picked up a Japanese book “I want to know more about Kyoto Vegetables” by Koji Ueda which explains the superiority of the local sansho grown on Mt. Kurama about 15 km north of the city. 
Translating from the book
“Some may question the inclusion of sansho berries among Kyoto vegetables, but for Kyoto residents, who strive for the softest vegetables, sansho berries are an essential Kyoto vegetable. Hatsuhashi and senmaizuke are ubiquitous souvenirs throughout Kyoto, but recently, chirimen sansho has become a staple, almost replacing senmaizuke. This is a tsukudani (simmered dish) of dried small sardines and sansho berries. Chirimen sansho’s success hinges on the tenderness of the sansho berries and their skin. In the past, it was a secret recipe passed down from mother to son from each family.  When it comes to sansho berries with soft flesh and skin, the first thing that comes to mind is the sansho berries near Mount Kurama in Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City. The type of sansho is called Asakura sansho, and it’s grown in Tajima Province (Hyogo Prefecture).”
The city of Asakura is in Fukuoka Prefecture and here this special thornless variety of sansho originated. The book proceeds to explain that after choice of variety, the next most important thing is when the berries are harvested. If harvested too early they are soft, but break down when cooked in tsukudani. Harvested too late, the skin becomes hard and the berries turn black, turning the entire fruit into a hard, unappetising substance. When berries turn black  greengrocers call it “the ohaguro has got in.”  (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohaguro). To ensure a good result, you need to use before “the ohaguro has got in”.
Other parts of this shrub are also used, including the young leaves, flower buds, flowers, bark and young fruits. One of the sansai farms we visited specialised on producing the leaves, used as a beautiful edimental garnish on various dishes. The leaves had to be “perfect” for use in this way. See the gallery of pictures below from the farm visit.

 

The female trees are grafted and prefer semi-shade. The male trees are also used, most commonly the green flowering buds or hana sansho, a seasonal product in spring (see https://tinyurl.com/bs29zdcs). It’s used as a garnish on various dishes, in tsukudani and other dishes. 
The flowers are also used, typically sprinkled on soups and other dishes as a spicy garnish. Next available are the immature peppercorns known as Ao-sansho, literally green sansho and these are used in a similar way, in  tsukudani, or mixed with dried small sardines to make chirimen-sansho. 
There are even records of the inner bark being used in the past!

Zanthoxylum schinifolium is also found in the wild in Japan where it is known as inu-sansho or literally dog sansho, referring to the inferior taste of the berries.

5 forms of Zanthoxylum piperitum are named on the Japanese Wiki page:

Asakura forma inerme is a thornless cultivar that emerged as a result of a mutation in the 19th century or earlier. It is mainly grown by grafting female plants, as seedlings are sexually indeterminate (males don’t have berries) and can develop thorns. (I once saw this form in the Utrecht Botanical Garden with berries; pictures)
Yamaasakura forma brevispinosum is intermediate between the wild thorny species and Asakura with short spines, found wild in the mountains.
Ryujinzansho forma ovalifoliolatum has ovate leaflets and only 3-5 leaflets. They are considered edible, but not medicinal. Originates from the Ryujin region of Wakayama Prefecture
Grape sansho is believed to descend from the Asakura form and is  suitable as it doesn’t grow very tall and produces large fruits, prolific like a bunch of grapes. It is cultivated by grafting female plants.
Takahara Sansho (Highland Pepper) is cultivated in the Takahara River basin in the Hida region, is smaller than Asakura sansho and is a fragrant variety.

The Zanthoxylum genus is also known as host of various species of swallowtail butterfly (Papilio sp.) both in North America and the Far East. In Southern Europe the migratory subspecies is known to feed on common rue / vinrute (Ruta sp.) and like Zanthoxylum in the Rutaceae! In 2024, caterpillars were found on a common rue plant being grown in the herb garden at the Ringve Botanical Garden in Trondheim! Perhaps it could turn up on cultivated Zanthoxylum species in Europe. 

Mountain cultivation of Udo in Nagano

On 9th April 2016 I was staying with my new friend Tei Kobayashi in the mountains in a lovely village, Nogura, above Ueda in Nagano Prefecture. I was put in touch with Tei through a mutual friend in Norwegian Seed Savers (KVANN), Caroline Ho-Bich-Tuyen Dang, when I put out a call for an interpreter when visiting the farm with the underground udo forcing caverns in Tokyo: https://www.edimentals.com/blog/?p=8284 and https://www.edimentals.com/blog/?p=7499
Tei had kindly agreed to travel down to help out!
She took me to see udo (Aralia cordata) being grown on a small farm in her village with a villager who had knowledge of sansai. The new shoots were just appearing through a thick layer of rice husks. Here’s a video and some pictures of this beautiful place! Thanks again to you Tei for your hospitality without which this would never have been possible!
There will hopefully be more posts from the visit with Tei as soon as time allows!
Tei starts talking about another use of rice husks, in nukazuke, fermented vegetables in rice bran (nuka), see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nukazuke
(Thanks to Tei for the following clarification: I just wanted to comment on the Udo cultivation process. I just learned that it is not “nuka “ but “momigara” that the plants are grown in to keep them white. “Momigara is the outermost husk of the rice kernel. “Nuka” is the inner rice hull it is very finely ground into an almost powdery substance. Nuka is the outer covering of the rice that is removed to make it white…it is often polished after the hull is removed”.)



   Showing us Chengiopanax sciadophylloides (koshiabura) which had yet to emerge:

Japanese Sansai in March

Almost exactly 5 years ago this week I was on a study tour to Japan to look at Sansai production. I’m doing a webinar talk about the trip for Norwegian Seed Savers (KVANN) on 18th April. Although it’s open for all it will be in Norwegian. If there is interest for it I could repeat in English at some stage, but probably not before next winter. If anyone would like to organise it, please let me know. Otherwise, I may just organise it as the first Edimentals talk!  See https://www.facebook.com/events/1333421547030675
Sansai (meaning mountain vegetables, mostly perennials) are what are essentially previously wild foraged vegetables which are now produced on farms in the lowlands around the cities in Japan, often in greenhouses for all year production – roots are often frozen until they are needed). 
With a little planning one can extend the season for some of the best sansai vegetables by digging up roots in the autumn and planting them in soil in buckets which are stored in my cold cellar (just above 0C this winter), and ready to be brought up into the living room for forcing in winter / spring (they could also be left outside, protected by piling leaves or similar around them – the roots are more exposed to cold in a bucket). For blanching I use a second upturned bucket on top. I’ve now harvested three important sansai veggies which were forced (it took a couple of weeks);
Udo (Aralia cordata): peeled and sliced and eaten as a salad in a sesame oil and soy sauce with roasted sesame seed dressing
Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris): steamed for 10 minutes
Urui (Hosta sieboldiana): The blanched shoots are deliciously crispy and mild tasting, perfect with a dipping sauce (sesame oil, roasted sesame seeds and soy sauce)
The sansai were served with fried veggie beetroot burgers (aka blood burgers) which are cooked and grated beetroot mixed with egg and wholegrain emmer flour (with grated onion, garlic, chili, salt and pepper).




 

Beredskapshagen (Preparedness Garden) i Valdres

Følgende artikkel ble først publisert i KVANNs Nyhetsbrev #9 fra desember 2018 .

English: An article about Anders Nordrum’s Beredskapshagen (Preparedness-garden) in the Norwegian mountains in Valdres (see also Anders’ Norwegian blog datsja.no), first published in Norwegian Seed Savers’ (KVANN) Newsletter in December 2018.

Beredskapshagen

Som jeg har nevnt tidligere har gartnerlærer (fra Gjennestad) Anders Nordrum i Valdres sammen med Torstein Jæger Dalen (en pensjonert hvitløks dyrker på hele 1050 moh også i Valdres!) sagt seg villig til å lede KVANNs hvitløk-laug, noe vi er svært glad for! Anders er den mest kunnskapsrik grønnsaksdyrker jeg har møtt de siste årene. I forbindelse med at jeg holdt foredrag hos Valdres Sopp og nyttevekstforening tidlig i august 2017 på Vaset var det flere som snakket varmt om Anders og hans engasjement og ikke minst en spesiell hvitløk som han og Barbro fikk fra en hviterussisk munk tidlig på 2000-tallet. Hvitløken viste seg å være svært robust og ga gode avlinger hos Anders og Barbro, de begynte å dele den med andre og med forsker-gener satt han i gang på eget hånd å lære mer om hvor i Norge denne sorten kunne dyrkes og, lokalt, a sammenligne dyrking i forskjellige høyder! Til dette formålet startet Anders opp en FB gruppe «En hvitløks vandring høyt og lavt i Norge» (se https://www.facebook.com/groups/126595354640631). Jeg elsker en god plantehistorie og hadde lyst til å besøke Anders, men han var dessverre ikke hjemme den helgen jeg var i Valdres. Anders har også en spennende blogg DATSJA (https://www.datsja.no) med undertittelen «Fra jord der du bor: Kjøkkenhagen som matvareberedskap». På en Russisk datsja (kolonihage) lærte man av hverandre hvordan man kunne få mest mulig ut av hver kvadratmeter jord, og hvordan man best  kunne lagre, tilberede og konservere markens og naturens grøde…og det samme kan sies om Anders sin DATSJA! Barbro og Anders mener at matvareberedskap i Norge er skremmende dårlig og gjennom DATSJA ville de prøver å hjelpe folk til selv-hjelp gjennom bloggen og andre tiltak! Nå har de kommet med i et NRK TV program:  https://tv.nrk.no/serie/innafor/2018/MDDP12100318 (fra ca. 14:30)

Etter mitt besøk i Valdres reiste jeg videre til Voss hvor styremedlem Eirik Lillebøe Wiken hadde arrangert et besøk hos et av de siste gårdene som dyrker Vossakvann, Olde i Bordalen (Eirik Lillebøe Wiken). Etter det var vi Hardanger for det årlige Perennialen (nr 3 i rekke) hvor vi besøkte Alvastien Permakultur LAND senter, Baroniet Rosendal og Hardanger Akademiet i Jondal, hvor årets Nordisk Permakulturfestivalen ble arrangert! Etter Perennialen skulle Eirik og jeg reiser til Hurdal (KVANN styremøtet!). Jeg kom på ideen at vi kunne kanskje besøke beredskapshagen i Valdres på veien…og, ja, Barbro og Anders var hjemme og hadde lyst til å vise oss hagen der de bor (nær Fagernes) ved 400 moh og også, om vi hadde tid, et annet felt på stølen hvor han også hadde plantet hvitløk (og potet). Ja takk svarte vi! Beredskapshagen var stappfull av fantastiske grønnsaker som var gjødslet av neslevann fra planter samlet fra skogskantene i nærheten…her var det virkelig kortreist mat! Etterpå var vi en tur opp til stølen og her har Anders oppdaget at hvitløk trives veldig godt!

Men, høydepunktet for meg var feltet av hvitløk med potet på stølen på nær 960 moh! Jeg skrev følgende etter besøket «Jeg var imponert over de høytliggende hvitløkplantene i Valdres, men dette er med å bekrefte det jeg har sagt under alle mine foredrag de siste årene at jeg mener at vi kunne dyrke mye mer mat i Nord-Norge og fjellbygdene ved å bruke flerårige grønnsaker…de kommer raskt igang på våren og utnytter sesongen optimalt…!»….det er bare å se hvor godt rabarbra og kvann vokser i god jord på fjellet! Både hvitløk og potet er egentlig flerårige i at vi ikke starter fra frø hvert år. Flere av oss i KVANN ønske å etablere forsøksfelt for en rekke andre flerårige grønnsaker i fjellet og arktiske strøk og stølen til Anders kan bli et av dem! Vi diskuterer også å organisere dette i et Fjell-laug! Jeg satt hvitløken fra Hviterussland for første gang i høst!

Det er ikke bare hvitløk og datsja kulturen i Russland Anders henter inspirasjon fra. Han har også kommet i kontakt med flere av våre nye landsmenn som har tatt med seg spennende planter og teknikker, noe han også blogger om!

Figur 8 Besøk på beredskaphagen til Barbro og Anders i Valdres med skogshage gartneren Eirik.

Figur 9 Hvitløk og potet på stølen i nær 960 moh i Valdres!

Forsøk med flerårige grønnsaker i fjellet

English summary:  We believe that we could grow a lot more food in the Arctic and Norwegian Mountains buy using perennials rather than annuals. These are the first plants to be tested, leaving my garden last weekend!


Sansai-lauget i KVANN er igang med å teste flerårige grønnsaker i fjellene. Dette er den første forsendelsen som
Anders Nordrum skal teste i over 900m på stølan hans i Valdres hvor han allerede dyrker hvitløk med hell!

Jeg tror at vi kunne dyrke mye mer mat i fjellbygdene og i Nord Norge ved å utnytte mulighetene flerårige grønnsaker gir oss! Man kan bare se hvor godt rabarbra og Kvann vokser i fjellet og Tromsøpalme i Nord Norge for å forstå dette! Flerårige planter kommer i vekst tidlig på våren og utnytte den tilgjenglige solenergi optimalt gjennom sesongen og kan levere mat i mange år! Det blir spennende å se hvordan dette forsøket går!!
 
Sansai: Fjell grønnsaker i Japan som nå selges i alle supermarkedene i byene!
Andrew McMillion og Stephen Barstow er laug-lederne!

Shidoke

On my trip to Japan in spring 2016, I found shidoke (シドケ / Parasenecio delphiniifolia syn. Cacalia delphiniifolia) leaves on sale in a supermarket in Ueda, Japan. This is the only place I saw it during my 3 week visit to Japan, so not one of the most popular sansai or wild mountain vegetables. I’ve been growing this plant for a few years now in a very shady spot in the garden and it’s just come into flower which prompted this post. It’s a great woodland ornamental grown for its leaves and an unusual forest garden edimental. It is also known as momijigasa (モミジガサ) which translates as “maple umbrella” due to the similarity of the leaves to Acer palmatum. It resembles yaburegasa (Syneilesis palmata) meaning “torn umbrella”. I didn’t see shidoke in the wild, but I did see yaburegasain in one place on the Izu peninsula. Both of these plants in the Asteraceae have edible young shoots, although shidoke is the preferred one. I bought a packet in that supermarket and my friends Ken and Masami who we visited that night were kind enough to prepare it as tempura! It is apparently pleasant tasting raw, but is most often cooked and served with a little soy sauce and roasted sesame seed once cool. Shidoke contains antioxidants that have been shown to inhibit the growth of cancer cells.
See also http://www.edimentals.com/blog/?p=6357 (Visit to Ken and Masami) and this blog post on FB at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154213988935860.1073742705.655215859&type=1&l=eb0bc1fced